I lay
in bed last night listening to the wind and rain thinking, "it's
a dark and stormy night alright." I actually like wind and rain
because it always gets me thinking. Let me clarify that... I like it
when I'm safely tucked up in bed and not out in it. Rainy nights are
always good for a trip down memory lane.
My
days of sailing usually are at the top of the list. The basic rule of
thumb when living on board is, "I'd rather be in this harbour
wishing I was out there, than out there wishing I was in here."
Bad weather is part and parcel of sailing but if you can avoid it, so
much the better.
I've
been through way too many 'will I survive this?' storms or bad
conditions at sea but a few are up in the top 10 of bad. This is one
of them.
On a
moody January morning in 1986 Lee and I set sail from Morocco bound
for Tenerife in the Canary Islands on a delivery of a bare bone Swan 37. They are
Swedish built and one of the best sailing boats in the world. The
weather was threatening but we were on the clock, which is never a
good thing when sailing. The weather worsened steadily and soon we
were barreling along under storm sail over raucous waves. The heavens
just opened and belted us with heavy rain every time I went on watch.
It
stayed bad for nearly three days, really bad. We had some scary
incidents with unidentifiable ships and a few other mysterious, but
quite funny, happenings. We were exhausted and very wet by the end of
it as we had to hand steer the whole time. Water leaked in to our
lockers and we had absolutely no dry clothes. Lee gets seasick the
first couple of days out - he's fine when on the helm or flat out in
his bunk. It's the in between bits that are difficult for him. I
strapped myself to the stove a couple of times a day to make hot
chocolate and a simple version of French toast. This sustenance was
about all we could manage because the boat was bashing around so
much.
I was
on watch as a dull dawn broke, the wind started to lighten and the
rain became a drizzle. The Atlantic swells were enormous. You had to
steer up at an angle and then run down the other side at an angle. I
was doing the wave zigzag when I saw dolphins playing in the big
swells in the distance. I was just delighted. Dolphins make you feel
safe and happy. My cheerful state of joy dimmed as we drew closer and
I realized it wasn't dolphins, it was a pod of whales. The swells
were so bloody big, they made the whales look small. I remember my
heart sinking as I wondered, "Will this never end?" It did
eventually, a weak sun came out, the sea calmed and we shook out the
sails.
Later
we festooned the railings with our clothes to dry. We sailed naked
and free and laughed loudly at the exhilaration of the storm ending.
A big school of dolphins - really dolphins this time - joined us and
started playing across our bows. We were finally able to put the auto
pilot on before we both rushed to the bow. It was a spectacle of fun.
The dolphins rose out the water on their tails and chattered at us
before diving and racing through the bow wave. It's one of the most
wonderful sights in the world. Their happy faces and antics drove
away any misery and fear.
Dark
and stormy nights often bring that trip back to me and I still wonder
about that ship we couldn't identify...what it was, it's size or the
direction it was going. And I am always very grateful indeed to be
snug in my warm bed thinking about being out there, rather than being
out there wishing I was in here.
Finally dry-ish and heading in to Los Christianos, Tenerife |